The philosopher Winemaker of Tenuta Licinia
The philosopher Winemaker of Tenuta Licinia
by Valeria Tenison
Data: 25 ottobre 2024
Testata: Jane Anson Inside Bordeaux
James Marshall-Lockyer, a 32-year-old Doctor of Philosophy from Oxford University, is far from your average winemaker. He's also nothing like most of his 30-something peers: he avoids social media and is reluctant to be photographed.
He took over the Tenuta Licinia estate, on the border between the provinces of Siena and Arezzo, from his grandfather in 2020. Located in Lucignano, on the picturesque hillsides of the Tuscan Apennines near Valdichiana, it sits on the border between the provinces of Siena and Arezzo. The estate spans 60ha, with 5.Sha of vineyards and 3ha of olive graves. Lucignano has a rich viticultural history dating back to the Etruscan era, although this tradition had waned over centuries of social upheaval.
The property with a small vineyard was initially acquired in the 7970s by Count Jacques de Liedekerke, a Belgian lawyer who was also a Grand Chancellor of the Order of Malta. He restored the abandoned farmhouse but did not focus on winemaking until 2007, when he decided to rejuvenate the vineyard and planted it with Bordeaux varieties, reflecting his French-Belgian heritage. But it remained a side interest until his grandson arrived. With no formal winemaking education but a naturaI inclination for learning, James quickly immersed himself in the world of viticulture. James believes that his philosophical background helps him quickly synthesize everything he reads in the books and retain whatever is relevant to him.
He credits his mentors, Jacques Thienpont and Fiona Morrison MW, for guiding him in the practical aspects of winemaking, while prominent figures like Henry Jayer, Gianfranco Soldera, and Jacky Rigaux inspire his vision and methodology. "Do you think that terroir is uniquely a European thing?'' I ask, seeing that all his wine preferences are European. James makes a long pause. "I don't think so but my experience with non-European wines is too insignificant to make a counter statement".
Tenuta Licinia's vineyards are a testament to James' commitment to preserving and enhancing the terroir. Sasso di Fata boasts galestro subsoils that allow vine roots to penetrate deeply, resulting in wines known for producing wines with fresh acidity and precise, linear profiles. ln contrast, the Montepolli vineyard, with its clay subsoil, produces broad wines with less structure and more robust tannins.
The vineyards ofTenuta Lidnia are organically certified, and James has also integrated biodynamic practices. He employs soft pruning techniques and uses biodynamic preparations to maintain the health of the vines. Since 2027,James has been working with the Bordeaux-based team of Stéphane Derenoncourt (Derenoncourt Consultants) for vineyard and cellar operations, with Julien Lavenu acting as a consultant.
The winemaking style at Tenuta Licinia leans towards a less extractive approach, aiming to maintain the refinement of primary aromas. The use of oak is restrained compared to traditional Tuscan methods-ageing the wine for 72 months in S00L French oak barrels, with only 33% new oak to ensure that the oak's influence does not overpower the wine's aromatic and minerai profile.
The estate's flagship wine, Sasso di Fata, is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The 2021 vintage, James' first independent vintage, is still developing, while the 2022 already shows accessibility and well-rounded character. Both wines show aromatic complexity and finesse, the characteristics of fine wine in James' philosophie paradigm. Fine floral rosehip and peppery-smoky notes intertwine with typical herbaceous notes of the Cabernets. Tannins are beautifully fine-grained and measured, slightly more grainy in 2021 and ifuller andjuicier in 2022.
James' obsession with galestro soils doesn't stop with Sasso di Fata. After conducting extensive research on over 700 vineyards in the surrounding area, he discovered a small l.5-hectare plot with the perfect conditions for producing high-quality Sangiovese. This new project, Montalceto, involves reviving 21-year-old vines and the first harvest was made in 2023. lt's clear that this self-taught philosopher winemaker isjust getting started.
Link: https://janeanson.com/the-philosopher-winemaker-of-tenuta-licinia